![]() ![]() Never put your board in front of you, between you and the incoming waves.Never fight against a rip instead, swim or paddle along the shore (across the current) to get out of it, then paddle towards shore.“Longshore” or “downshore” currents are common to Huntington Beach and other beachbreaks, and are not as dangerous as a rip current because they merely sweep you down along the beach, making it harder to find your car. Rips account for about 80% of lifeguard rescues. They usually appear as a sandy patch of choppy water. Currents: A “rip current” is like a river pulling out to sea.Having your feet on the ‘sweet spot’ – particularly the back foot – is crucial to modern performance surfing. When feet are on either side, the board wobbles, flips, and turns where you don’t want it to. Backside: When a surfer rides with his back to the wave. ![]() Backdoor: Pulling into a hollow tube from behind the section.
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